Religion: At the top left, there's a shield that looks like your national flag. Click it and on the screen that comes up on the left, there's a cross indicating your state religion. Click that, it then takes you to the religion screen. From there you can, if available, switch religions and set tolerance levels.
And yes, you need ship based explorers to traverse TI over the oceans. I don't know why it's not working for you. But that's how it's done early in the game.
As for Spain having more VP, that's because it probably has a sizable colonial empire by now and much more combat.
As for time movement, hit CTRL and either the '+' or '-' buttons on the keypad to speed up or slow down time movement.
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"Let us kill the English! Their concept of individual rights could undermine the power of our beloved tyrants!"
~Lisa as Jeanne d'Arc
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